Anchoring:
An Open
Letter to All Bareboat Charter and First-Time
Cruising Skippers with the Dreaded... "Herd instinct anchoring
syndrome"
by Mike Latta
We need to talk about this anchoring business, because too many boats are parking way too close to me these days. It’s upsetting, if not outright scary at times. I am now too old and set in my creaky ways to continue to pull up and re-set every time another smiling innocent drops his chain on top of my well-set anchor.
It’s time to take a stand. Anchoring securely is the single most
important
cruising skill we need to develop. The alternative is to inadvertently
end up
on the dirt part of the planet any given dark and stormy night, or
fresh and
breezy afternoon. In spite of one’s well-honed sail handling, chart
reading,
weather knowledge, GPS aptitude, or VHF attitude… it’s anchoring
technique, or
the lack thereof, that nine times out of ten gets us in trouble out
here. And
good anchoring moxie seems to be a skill that comes only with
experience.
Granted, this learning curve can be a tad bit overwhelming at times.
Especially
for the boat that drags… not to mention the boat(s) that it drags down
upon.
And when one anchors too close to others, it only exacerbates the
problem by
leaving you with little to no time to correct the problem. Y our
situation has
suddenly become mine as we both try to keep our respective vessels from
swapping chain plates… or worse.
So at least give yourself some room to react in case you ever do drag
(and
eventually you will) by never anchoring too close to other boats.
Besides, it’s
not friendly, and it freaks out people like me. Would you park your RV
on the
next door neighbor’s lawn? (Think of it as being way back in Sand Box
101 and
learning to play nice. I’m that obnoxious little snot that kept
whapping you
over the head with a shovel when you plowed your dump truck through my
fort. Remember?
This is serious stuff.)
I’ve been seeing a lot of this “Herd Instinct” thing lately in
anchorages,
crowded or not, all up and down
With all that out of the way, here comes an oversimplified, by the
numbers,
solution to “How to Anchor in a Crowd.”
First off let’s assume that you have good ground tackle. Your main
anchor
(over-sized with another next to it) is on the bow ready to go, with at
least
100’ of appropriate chain attached to two or three hundred feet of
hefty line.
And very importantly, you have marked yourchain at readily noted
intervals at
10’, 15’, 20’, 25’, 30’and then the ensuing usual deeper marks -
whatever you choose
– it’s your boat. I strongly suggest marking these first short lengths
so that
after reading your depth gauge and going forward, you will know exactly
when
your anchor is supposed to just touch the bottom. And know
that not all pristine Tropic of Cancer coves are blessed with gin-clear
waters.
I paint my main anchor white to make it easier to see as it descends to
the
bottom.
There are four things to keep in mind when you go to anchor amid other
boats:
1. Where to drop the hook.
2. How to drop the hook after you’ve determined your best spot.
3. How to set the hook.
4. How to deploy the proper amount of scope.
Here’s how to accomplish each step quickly, easily and safely, not to
mention
how to look like an old salt as you quietly set it while every one
surreptitiously
judges your every move. (No shouting… sound carries over water. The
judges will
be scoring, so look cool.)
I will assume that you already have your sails down and furled, dinghy
tucked
up, no lines trailing, engine running and the foredeck cleared. Upon
entering
the anchorage area, it’s good to meander slowly through it first and
scope it
out while noting the depths, preferably from the downwind end, working
upwind.
You might even want to ease past some folks sitting in their cockpit
and ask how
much scope people are putting out, or any
other bit of helpful local info. (Is the bottom mud? Sand? Rocky in
places?
Does that dry wash to port turn into “Hurricane Gulch” in late
afternoon?)
The so called seaman-like and neighborly thing to do is to choose a
spot on the
outer edge of the anchorage, preferably downwind, at least four or five
boat
lengths away from anybody - assuming that doesn’t put you in the front
row of
tables at a local beach palapa. And always remember that what is
downwind when
you drop the hook will probably be
upwind just about the time you climb into your bunk.
And keep in mind that all these other boats were here first, maybe for
days or
weeks, and are well dug in, perhaps having weathered a couple
chubascos. The
last thing they want to do is move because of you, innocent or not.
Here’s how
to figure out if you’ll fit into a mid-pack hole without freaking out
those
nearby, or crews already on the beach watching as they smugly work on
their
third icy Pacifico.
1. Where to anchor:
So, for whatever reason, you decide to anchor in the middle of the crowd. And hopefully there seems to be a large enough “hole” for you to safely squeeze in… you think. It appears to be wide enough for you to swing around, if you can just anchor in the right spot for your boat to end up swinging in the middle of the “hole.”
The well-known secret to positioning your boat safely in a hole is to
place your
anchor in the optimum center relative to where the other boats’ anchors
are…
not where the boats themselves are. (See figure 1.)
Like this: Pre-select a specific drop spot centered two or three boat
lengths
aft of the two boats anchored at the upwind top of your hole. (If
there’s only
one boat at the top of the hole, your spot should be about the same
couple of lengths
aft, but off to the side that offers you the most room to swing.) This
is where
you will drop and set the hook and then lay out appropriate scope of 4
or 5 to
1 relative to the depth. If we’re saying this spot is 20’ deep, then
figure on
about 80’ to 100’ of scope. Can you visualize that amount placing your
boat
safely in the middle of the hole you’ve just chosen? (It would be a
perfect
world if everyone set out the same amount of scope in an anchorage.
They don’t,
so don’t worry too much about it initially.)
Now imagine what each boat will do as the wind does a 360 and you all
swing
around your respective anchors. If in this visualization it seems like
your
wind vane could end
up having a torrid affair with another’s bowsprit, or that you might be
playing
bumper cars all night long… you will obviously want to adjust your
pre-planned
drop spot. Or find a bigger hole.
2. How to drop the anchor:
The simplest way to nail this optimum drop spot is
by
s-l-o-w-l-y entering from
downwind into the “bottom” of your chosen “hole” area. Motor upwind
towards your
now selected spot half way between, and a couple boat lengths aft of,
the two
boats
that are swinging at the top of your “hole.”
Put the engine in neutral as you approach, having previously let out
enough
chain for the anchor to be aweigh, barely awash, ready to go. The idea
is to
come to a stop right over your chosen spot. Sometimes a little reverse
will
help here
As the boat, now idling in reverse, begins to drift backwards,
carefully lower
your hook to just barely touch the bottom. This assures that as you
fall back
laying out chain, the anchor shank will fall back too, pointing back
towards
you, with the flukes ready to dig in. (Of course you have noted the
depth here
and are checking the chain markers as they go by, being sure not to let
the
chain haphazardly fall down into a pile on top of the anchor, tangling
the shank
and wrapping around a fluke, insuring that it will never set correctly…
right?
Right?!)
Keep slowly backing down, paying out just enough chain to keep it
somewhat taut
and in a straight line without dragging the anchor. (I do this by hand
feel. If
your boat and gear is too big for this, just see that the chain is
paying out
evenly downwind from the point where you carefully lowered it,
occasionally snubbing
to keep it straight and comparatively taut, and to help keep the stern
from
wandering.)
3. How to set the anchor:
You’re in about 20’ of water. With the engine still idling in reverse, allow about 50’ or 60’ of chain to evenly run out… and now snub it. The chain will begin to straighten, get taut and shudder a bit before the anchor digs in and the boat stops. Line up a nearby boat with a point ashore. Get a bearing. Are you dragging? The point here is to keep your engine in reverse... slow... just enough to keep going backwards and allow any breeze and boat weight to straighten out the chain and smoothly set the anchor.
After the boat’s stopped, but still in reverse gear, release the chain
and
again let out another 30’ or 40.’ Snub it again and wait until the
chain gets taut
with the boat stopped again and holding. Now slowly and steadily take
the RPMs
up to what would be a good amount of reverse thrust. (With my little
22’
Again, check your bearings and see if you are dragging. This extra
thrust is
vital to insure that the anchor is really well dug in. If you start to
drag and
continue dragging – stop, haul in your chain, check that the anchor
isn’t
fouled, move slowly back up to your original spot, and repeat the
process.
(Note: You want the anchor to dig in as close to your original drop
spot as
possible, or you might end up off-center and swinging too close to the
bottom
of the hole.)
Don’t feel bad if it doesn’t work the first time. The bottom could be
something
that makes it difficult to stick: grass, shale, big pebbles, rock an
inch under
sand - whatever.
Keep at it. And don’t rush it.
4. How to lay out scope:
Now you have completed the second setting out of
chain, backed
down stoutly and are well secured to the bottom. It’s time now to lay
out any
remaining appropriate amount of scope relative to the depth and
positions of
the other boats. And then I strongly suggest that for the next hour,
while you
are straightening up the boat and getting your act together, that you
carefully
observe how your boat is riding to the anchor vis-à-vis the
boats around
you…especially if the wind is shifting. You might have to adjust
your scope to better mirror those around you. You should now be lying
in the
middle of your “hole.” As such, this particular anchor spot is the best
and safest
spot relative to the anchor positions of the two boats ahead and those
behind
and around you. And you will still remain safely separated when the
wind and/or
current swings all of you in circles. For instance, theoretically, if
the wind
does a 180, you should still be positioned about
in the center of your hole.
(Note: I rarely use less than 5 to 1, and often if there’s room, 6, 7
or 8 to 1
scope. It may be all quiet and calm now… but who knows from later? The
more
weight of chain that is laid out, the less chance of its raising off
the bottom
under pressure and lifting the anchor’s shank. Once that happens the
flukes can
loosen and you’re liable to drag.)

So there it is. Simple. Pick the right spot. Drop the hook smoothly.
Set it carefully.
Dig it in solidly. Lay out some scope. Go have a beer.
I hope to see you somewhere down the cruiser path. I’ll be the grumpy
old fart
way out at the edge of the anchorage wishing that he had refrigeration.
Please stay
far away… unless you bring a cold beer. Or else have decided to finally
return
my shovel. I haven’t been able to make a decent sand castle in 70 years.